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Thank you Claire, I'm so pleased you found my video useful. Kind regards Steve :)

Thank you for taking the time to comment. I’m pleased my video was useful. Kind regards Steve :)

Thank you for taking the time to comment. I’m so pleased that you found my video useful 🥰👍🏼

You are most welcome :) I'm pleased that you found my video useful. Thank you for taking the time to provide me with the feedback. Kind regards Steve :)

@@JPSElectricalServicesBristol i have two red cables how do i know which is live

@@MrRapez Confirm that each wire is in a different screw terminal on the existing switch. If there are markings on the existing switch showing C and L1 then mark one of the cables so that you can copy it on the new switch. Kind regards Steve :)

@@JPSElectricalServicesBristol ive sorted it thanks for your help

Thank you for taking the time to comment. If you're having issues with a light that uses a transformer then I would definitely start looking at replacing them for a 230V unit and GU10 lamp. They're far more reliable. How many are in the room? With regards to the intermittent issue you are having, sometimes the lamp holder wires fail, especially where halogen lamps have been in use. In this case you would need to replace the lamp holder ***Remember that the electricity supply should be isolated if you attempt this task yourself*** This link will provide you with reference to the part I am referring to. You can get these at all decent electrical wholesalers and I would recommend that you try a local independent establishment before using the chains such as shown in the link. www.toolstation.com/spare-lampholder/p99286?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2a6wBhCVARIsABPeH1t2f_UrGIIgk54in2mips_hhPTvxcqtoqmDHwj4bBSGxbwaJVlgNLsaAlHeEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds I hope this helps. Kind regards Steve :)

Thank you so much Steve. I’ll digest fully later. Thanks again

@@dolantwins101_x5 if you have any further questions then feel free to reply here. I'm always happy to help. Kind regards Steve :)

I have quite a few to replace. 8 in one area (kitchen) and 7 in the other area. I’d imagine these are on separate feeds as they have different switches. Feels like a big job to me 😢

Hi Rob, with a pull cord switch, red (or brown) in Common and black (or blue) in L1. I hope this helps. Kind regards Steve :)

Thank you for taking the time to come back and let me know. I'm so pleased you found my video useful. Kind regards Steve :)

Hi Graham, I'm pleased you found the video useful :)

Thank you for taking the time to comment. I'm so pleased that you found this video useful. Kind regards Steve :)

Thank you for taking the time to comment. In this situation you should see that one red is in the Common terminal and the other is in L1. I hope this helps. Kind regards Steve :)

@@JPSElectricalServicesBristol Thanks Steve! That's my problem though, there are no markings of any kind on the wire or the unit on terminals. Nothing!

@@breadyegg, no problem. With the existing switch, are there three screw terminals arranged in a triangular setting? One top, two bottom?

@@JPSElectricalServicesBristol I just had another look, this time with a torch! The wiring is in line. This time, with better light I could see an embossed "L2" on the unit (unwired), and hidden behind the wire next to it, "L1". So I think I'm good to go now. Rule #1 of any electrical work - good observation. Right? 😆 Thanks again for getting back to me.

@@breadyegg That's great news, I'm pleased you've identified it. Rule #1 of any electrical work is always make sure the electric is off before working but yes, good observation most certainly helps 🥰👍

Thank you for your comment. It will still work the same on a pull cord light switch. If you did the same thing on a standard rocker switch then the light would be on when in the off position and off when the switch is on the position. Some people will just unscrew the light switch from the wall and turn it upside down to rectify this issue. The correct way is Live to Common, switched live to L1. I hope this reply is useful. kind regards Steve :)

Thank you for the heads-up. It seems that there are a number of viewers experiencing different issues with the volume. Some say they can't hear it, others say certain parts are too loud. I think it's likely platform or computer setting differences amongst users? I hope the video was useful. Kind regards Steve :)

Hi Jason, Thank you for your comment. I have had this work on a lath and plaster ceiling in a VERY old cottage but I've had it where it hasn't worked in properties that weren't so old. I would recommend getting THE strongest magnet your money will buy and try it first. I hope this helps. Kind regards Steve :)

Thanks for taking the time to comment. How far did you watch into the video please? Kind regards Steve

Thank you for taking the time to comment. I’m so pleased this video was of use to you 🥰👍🏼

If there are other lights still working and you can see that they have gone off when the switch is operated then you can proceed with changing the bulb. If in doubt, turn the power off at the fuse box. Kind regards Steve 🙂👍🏼

Hi Rich, in this situation. Press and hold the test button until all remaining charge has been depleted from the unit. I hope this helps. Kind regards Steve :)

@@JPSElectricalServicesBristolWow, super guy! Thanks for the quick response mate! Cheers!

I’m pleased you found my video useful. Kind regards Steve :)

I’m so pleased that you found my video useful. Kind regards Steve :)

Thank you for taking the time to comment. I really appreciate your kind words. Kind regards Steve :)

I live in an NYC prewar apartment, first floor corner unit with identical unit above me, if that matters!

Hi Jasmine, are you in the UK? If so, what age and type of property are you trying to use this method on please? Many thanks Steve 🥰👍🏼

Hi @Mafioso1731, That's absolutely correct :) Plasterboards screws will usually be spaced at a distance not exceeding 300mm. UK Joist spacings are usually 400mm or 600mm from centre to centre. PS - The only dumb question is the one that remains unasked. Thank you for being the person that does because there will be many more people thinking the same thing. All the best Steve :)

Indeed they are. Nails and screws that attach the ceiling to the joists are metal ;)

Thank you for taking the time to comment. Not only have I had success using this method on a textured ceiling, I've also had occasions where it has worked on old lath and plaster. I must add, this is since producing this video and upgrading to stronger magnets. As an extra note, textured ceilings are usually due to the use of artex which should be tested for asbestos before any work is carried out on the ceiling. Anything up to and including the year 2000 should be presumed as containing asbestos unless proven otherwise. I hope this helps :)

There's a possibility that non magnetic screws/nails have been used. 18mm Plasterboard secured with a countersink screw will be detected be even a weak magnet. In the UK, joists are usually 400mm to 600mm centres. Screws are usually spaced at a distance that does not exceed 300mm. Don't always presume that the first joist starts at the very edge of the room. Let me know if there is anything else I might be able to help with. Kind regards Steve :)